Hearty Italian eatery satisfies

by Greg White, Muse Staff
The Daily Free Press, 2/19/04

Despite Firenze’s grotto-like choice in location, the underground Coolidge Corner eatery’s interior is warm and inviting: Terra cotta tiles lend a Mediterranean feel from below while iron and wood keep watch from above. Pictures of Florence (Firenze in Italian) adorn the walls, as do a few select items of decorative nostalgia.
Luckily, this homey warmth continues with the food – simple with enough complexity to avoid being called inauthentic.
The menu, while small, is the product of a careful and caring eye. The appetizers are rustic and trustworthy (crusty bread with cannelloni beans is a fine example) while the entrées range from beef carpaccio to the standard (but delicious) Tuscan-style chicken dishes.
Then there’s the pasta.
For those who grew up without the gastronomic benefit of an Italian grandmother, Firenze understands the importance of a good plate of pasta. The pasta highlight is the fettuccine Bolognese, which avoids the common mistake of just adding meat to a red sauce. The proper “tomato-takes-second-fiddle” approach is sometimes far too difficult for lesser restaurants, but Firenze proudly serves up a Bolognese that is rich, full of layers of flavors – some bright, some subdued – and like any good Ragú Bolognese, a deep, rich reddish brown.
Most nights the specials include a comforting array of those starches we mindlessly call noodles, and any of them – homemade ravioli, risotto or a pasta special – will be delicious.
The desserts are similar to the entrées, as both revel in their simplicity. Be sure to sample the Torta di nonna, a smart little lemon torte with pine nuts. It is perfect – sweet and lemony, dense but airy. The tiramisu is also excellent: creamy, satisfying and well-balanced.
The servers are quite friendly, knowledgeable and seem to have a genuine appreciation for the restaurant. Its small size allows for a higher concentration of character.
Also, don’t miss the lunch specials of homemade pastas and other hearty dishes such as Osso Bucco at Firenze’s sister restaurant next door, Bottega Fiorentina, an odd mix of Italian specialty shop and lunch destination. With its limited seating and long take-out line, if you can afford the time, you certainly can afford the food.