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From The Boston Phoenix, 4/22/94
Bottega Fiorentina
In Brookline, a taste of Tuscany to go.
Italy gives us so much
popular food – pizza, pasta, espresso – it’s
amazing the Italian concept of a fast-food shop has only recently
caught on. Now, thanks to Bottega Fiorentina, there’s a
prime example in Coolidge Corner. This is a spiffy shop offering
everything from packaged goods (imported biscuits, candies, oils,
savories) to authentic, reasonably priced, homemade take-out food.
For about $20, you can get a take-out lunch for four consisting
of high-carb Tuscan specialties that change daily. On Saturday,
for example, look for ribollita (a thick mash of white beans,
bread, carrots, and cabbage), lasagne (with real béchamel
sauce, little meat), and polpettone (meat loaf laced with prosciutto
and porcini mushrooms, with rosemary potatoes). The Tuscan owners
also bake: try slabs of chickpea focaccia or torta di riso, a
savory, moist cake with parmesan.
– Fred Bouchard
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